Tag: europe

Knodels and Pappardella- From Munich to Bolzano: Part 2

Munich and Salzburg:

Salzburg, Austria

It’s been a busy fall; I have been meaning to complete an entry about summer travels, but time flies! Here finally, is the belated second part of the Knodels and Papardella blog!

After my travel buddy Carol and I choose our destination, one of my favorite parts of the planning process is researching the local food and restaurants; I make reservations and the rest of the itinerary easily falls into place!

The ambitious plan for our most recent trip was to visit Munich, Salzburg, Ljubliana in Slovenia, Trieste and Bolzano. We flew into Munich on Condor (a smaller German airline). We entered an upgrade lottery and lucked out-we were moved up to Business Class and the seats to us in the middle were also empty!

We arrived early morning in Munich on a hot sunny June day; being too early to check into the Hotel Torbrau, we left our bags and spent the day walking slowly around the city, enjoying our surroundings while trying to ignore our growing jetlag.

That evening, our first dinner reservation on the trip was at Wirthaus in der Au, famous for a popular German dumpling specialty called Knodel.

The restaurant is located in the neighborhood Au, an artsy and leafy residential area that was once a working class quarter. It is outside the heart of the old town of Munich and next to the Isar River.

We were delighted to see a Knodel food truck painted with the title, “The Heavenly Knodel- Mobil” parked outside the restaurant!

We sat outdoors on a leafy patio and the food was wonderful; a creative modern take on traditional German food.

We started with a colorful appetizer plate that included bread, local cheeses and assorted dips.

We ordered a trio of Knodels and they were just as advertised on the food truck; heavenly- hearty, flavorful and at the same time light and not at all doughy.

Parmesan, Spinach & Bechamel Knodel

Basil Pesto with Tomato Broth Knodel

Curried Vegetable Knodel

We shared a delicious dish of pan seared brook trout and somehow managed to find room for dessert; a traditional German apple pancake with a berry compote and creme anglaise.

Pan Seared Salmon

Apple Pancake

After this wonderful feast we returned to our hotel and fell into a blissful sleep!

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The next day, we enjoyed breakfast on the balcony of our hotel and then spent the day visiting art museums. We walked through the bustling town to the beautiful Alte Pinakothek that was built in 1868.

Here is a description of the museum from their website:

A world-class gallery: the Alte Pinakothek (Old Pinakothek) in Munich is home to an outstanding collection of European paintings, stretching from the 14th to the 18th century.

Many of the 700 pieces on display represent high points in the history of art, including Albrecht Dürer’s epochal “Self-Portrait at Twenty-Eight Years Old Wearing a Coat with Fur Collar” from 1500. As the owner of the painting “Madonna of the Carnation” (which was painted in around 1473), the Alte Pinakothek is the only German museum to have its very own Leonardo da Vinci.

Visitors can also see pieces by Raphael, Titian, El Greco, Rubens, Rembrandt and Boucher.  Albert Altdorfer’s painting “The Battle of Alexander at Issus”, which is on show in the Pinakothek, is one of the first paintings to come from the Wittelsbach family’s original collection.

My friend Carol is an amazingly talented visual artist, so it was a special treat to visit the Alte Pinakothek with her- she became my personal art guide! We decided to concentrate on a few paintings and I asked Carol to tell me anything that came to mind as we enjoyed the artwork. We first chose Albert Durer’s famous self portrait, “Self-Portrait at Twenty-Eight Years Old Wearing a Coat with a Fur Collar”.

Albrecht Durer- “Self Portrait at 28 Years Old”

Carol mentioned that this painting could be considered a breakthrough in the way Durer depicted emotional realism and psychological depth. We were transfixed by the expressiveness of the eyes.

We were also mesmerized by the exquisite detail in Jan Bruegel’s painting “Large Bouquet of Flowers”.

Jan Bruegel-“Large Bouquet of Flowers”

We arrived in Salzburg on an atmospheric day; cool and cloudy.

We checked into our beautiful and elegant five star Bristol Hotel across the street from the Mozart Wohnhaus (family residence)! We had decided to give ourselves one special hotel treat!

Before we headed out to see explore the town, we could not resist a few minutes of hilarity in the elegantly mirrored bathroom!

Just a few blocks from out hotel was the Mozart Geburtshaus (Birth house).

Mozart Geburtshaus, Salzburg

We were thrilled to walk in the small ancient musty rooms decorated with manuscripts, instruments and paintings; a display case held the tiny violin that Mozart played as a young child!

Kitchen- Mozart Geburtshaus

That evening, our dinner reservation was at Maxim im Weiherwirt, a beautiful upscale restaurant with creative and lighter Austrian cuisine. It was located in a town about 15 minutes from Salzburg, across from the Leopoldskroner Weiher lake. Distant mountains and the Leopold Castle are perched on a nearby hillside.

We started our dinner with a simple salad made with delicate local lettuces and tomatoes dressed with a light vinaigrette.

We enjoyed the salads with frosty classes of Austrian beer and freshly baked bread.

I ordered spring pea soup that was a rich treat; creamy and garnished with chives and crispy bits of guanciale topped with an egg that I stirred into the piping hot soup- delicious!

Carol enjoyed grilled pork loin with mixed grains and glazed carrots in a light wine sauce.

Sauteed trout served over peas and greens and topped with toasted couscous was light and delicious.

We had a bit of room left to share light and airy Rhubarb Pana Cotta with fresh strawberries and creme fraiche.

We lingered over dessert as the sun started to set over the lake.

A warm light glowed from the restaurant window as we took a leisurely after dinner stroll around the lake.

The next morning we awoke to a beautiful sunny day and enjoyed the opulent breakfast buffet at our hotel.

We took one last walk around town and discovered the Mirabellgarten that includes the Troll Garten with adorable and captivating tiny statues that date from the Renaissance.

As we walked around admiring the small statues, I noticed several ancient stalwart trees standing guard with troll like features begging to be included as “Trees of the Week“!

“TREES OF THE WEEK FROM SALZBURG”!

“We’ve been in the Troll Garden for a Very Long Time!“

Then we were off to our next destination to Lbjuliana in Slovenia.

Part Three of the blog- Trieste and Bolzano will come soon!

I hope this blog is an antidote to our crazy world and that it brings you pleasure and a bit of a respite for you!

Decoration on Mozart’s piano

Norway: Grieg and Bergen- Part 1

As we made our descent into Bergen, the sky was cloudy and overcast; a rainbow appeared in the sky seeming to welcome us to our Norway adventure!

I was accompanied by my intrepid traveling companion Carol. The plan was to spend three days exploring Bergen on foot and then go on an expedition by car, driving on narrow winding roads with spectacular views of the mountains and fjords. And, of course this included many memorable meals!

A convenient bus from the airport dropped us off right in the middle of the bustling Bergen harbor a few blocks from the Clarion Hotel that was located on a cozy side street.

After settling in and taking a short nap to shake off some of our jetlag, we set out on a walk around the neighborhood and were delighted by medieval side streets and tiny doorways.

It was time for our first dinner reservation at the historic Enhjorningen (Unicorn Fish) Restaurant. We entered the medieval era building and climbed up a winding staircase.

The door opened up into a cozy and atmospheric restaurant with ancient wooden walls and beams.

Our quaint table looked out over the water and the food was also excellent!

We started with an artfully arranged salad with fresh local cherry tomatoes and feta.

We each ordered beautifully prepared fish entrees with monkfish and salmon that were accompanied with carrot puree, roasted baby potatoes, pickled vegetables and broccolini.

For dessert we shared an excellent blueberry tart with a crisp cookie crust top and brown cheese ice cream. After I tried Norwegian brown cheese at other meals, I recognized the nutty, sweet caramel flavor- a perfect ending to our first dinner!

We strolled back slowly to our hotel. From our room we enjoyed a view of the harbor with a bright sky at 10:30 PM. We quickly fell into a deep sleep!

The next morning we dug eagerly into a sumptuous breakfast buffet that included smoked fish, fresh crusty whole grain breads and rolls, home made jams, fresh fruit and yogurt.

We headed out to find the Bergen Public Library which houses the Grieg archives, including the original manuscripts for many of his compositions.

Edvard Grieg was born in Bergen in 1843. Widely recognized as one of the major Romantic composers, his compositions incorporated many Norwegian folk melodies. Before our trip, I had been in contact with the archive department at the University of Bergen to find out how to access Grieg’s manuscripts. I was told that the manuscripts were housed at the Bergen Public Library and that no appointment was required.

On the way, we took a stroll through the bustling fish market, which displayed an enormous variety of fish, seafood and delicacies.

We found the library that was housed in an old stone building not far from the Kode Art Museum.

At the front desk, we asked the librarian to direct us to the Grieg Archives. She seemed a bit surprised and called another colleague on the phone. After a few minutes, another librarian appeared and said that we needed to make an appointment and that it would not be possible to view the manuscripts. I am a person who does not take “no for an answer” easily. I politely stood my ground; she finally relented and asked if we would wait a few minutes while she collected folders of music. While we were waiting, I noticed a thick book of photographs detailing the history of Bergen. I found several compelling photos.

The librarian returned with several thick folders and asked us to follow her into a room that was decorated with Grieg memorabilia.

She locked the door and asked that we not touch the pages- pictures were fine! The librarian’s demeanor softened and with great pride, one by one, she slowly turned the pages of music.

She also showed us pages of Norwegian folk melodies that were collected by Frants Beyer, a close friend of Grieg’s. Beyer is well known for collecting the folk songs that were the inspiration for Grieg’s opus 66- Nineteen Norwegian Folk Tunes.

We ended our visit having a lovely conversation with the librarian and as we left, thanked her for an inspirational and thrilling morning!

Stay tuned for Norway: Part 2 with more sites, art and food from Bergen!

AND: Here is the “Tree of the Week”:

“I’ve seen a lot in my time!”

HAPPY SUMMER!