Norway: Grieg and Bergen- Part 1

As we made our descent into Bergen, the sky was cloudy and overcast; a rainbow appeared in the sky seeming to welcome us to our Norway adventure!

I was accompanied by my intrepid traveling companion Carol. The plan was to spend three days exploring Bergen on foot and then go on an expedition by car, driving on narrow winding roads with spectacular views of the mountains and fjords. And, of course this included many memorable meals!

A convenient bus from the airport dropped us off right in the middle of the bustling Bergen harbor a few blocks from the Clarion Hotel that was located on a cozy side street.

After settling in and taking a short nap to shake off some of our jetlag, we set out on a walk around the neighborhood and were delighted by medieval side streets and tiny doorways.

It was time for our first dinner reservation at the historic Enhjorningen (Unicorn Fish) Restaurant. We entered the medieval era building and climbed up a winding staircase.

The door opened up into a cozy and atmospheric restaurant with ancient wooden walls and beams.

Our quaint table looked out over the water and the food was also excellent!

We started with an artfully arranged salad with fresh local cherry tomatoes and feta.

We each ordered beautifully prepared fish entrees with monkfish and salmon that were accompanied with carrot puree, roasted baby potatoes, pickled vegetables and broccolini.

For dessert we shared an excellent blueberry tart with a crisp cookie crust top and brown cheese ice cream. After I tried Norwegian brown cheese at other meals, I recognized the nutty, sweet caramel flavor- a perfect ending to our first dinner!

We strolled back slowly to our hotel. From our room we enjoyed a view of the harbor with a bright sky at 10:30 PM. We quickly fell into a deep sleep!

The next morning we dug eagerly into a sumptuous breakfast buffet that included smoked fish, fresh crusty whole grain breads and rolls, home made jams, fresh fruit and yogurt.

We headed out to find the Bergen Public Library which houses the Grieg archives, including the original manuscripts for many of his compositions.

Edvard Grieg was born in Bergen in 1843. Widely recognized as one of the major Romantic composers, his compositions incorporated many Norwegian folk melodies. Before our trip, I had been in contact with the archive department at the University of Bergen to find out how to access Grieg’s manuscripts. I was told that the manuscripts were housed at the Bergen Public Library and that no appointment was required.

On the way, we took a stroll through the bustling fish market, which displayed an enormous variety of fish, seafood and delicacies.

We found the library that was housed in an old stone building not far from the Kode Art Museum.

At the front desk, we asked the librarian to direct us to the Grieg Archives. She seemed a bit surprised and called another colleague on the phone. After a few minutes, another librarian appeared and said that we needed to make an appointment and that it would not be possible to view the manuscripts. I am a person who does not take “no for an answer” easily. I politely stood my ground; she finally relented and asked if we would wait a few minutes while she collected folders of music. While we were waiting, I noticed a thick book of photographs detailing the history of Bergen. I found several compelling photos.

The librarian returned with several thick folders and asked us to follow her into a room that was decorated with Grieg memorabilia.

She locked the door and asked that we not touch the pages- pictures were fine! The librarian’s demeanor softened and with great pride, one by one, she slowly turned the pages of music.

She also showed us pages of Norwegian folk melodies that were collected by Frants Beyer, a close friend of Grieg’s. Beyer is well known for collecting the folk songs that were the inspiration for Grieg’s opus 66- Nineteen Norwegian Folk Tunes.

We ended our visit having a lovely conversation with the librarian and as we left, thanked her for an inspirational and thrilling morning!

Stay tuned for Norway: Part 2 with more sites, art and food from Bergen!

AND: Here is the “Tree of the Week”:

HAPPY SUMMER!