Travel – Page 2 – A Musician's Travels

Norway: Grieg and Bergen- Part 1

As we made our descent into Bergen, the sky was cloudy and overcast; a rainbow appeared in the sky seeming to welcome us to our Norway adventure!

I was accompanied by my intrepid traveling companion Carol. The plan was to spend three days exploring Bergen on foot and then go on an expedition by car, driving on narrow winding roads with spectacular views of the mountains and fjords. And, of course this included many memorable meals!

A convenient bus from the airport dropped us off right in the middle of the bustling Bergen harbor a few blocks from the Clarion Hotel that was located on a cozy side street.

After settling in and taking a short nap to shake off some of our jetlag, we set out on a walk around the neighborhood and were delighted by medieval side streets and tiny doorways.

It was time for our first dinner reservation at the historic Enhjorningen (Unicorn Fish) Restaurant. We entered the medieval era building and climbed up a winding staircase.

The door opened up into a cozy and atmospheric restaurant with ancient wooden walls and beams.

Our quaint table looked out over the water and the food was also excellent!

We started with an artfully arranged salad with fresh local cherry tomatoes and feta.

We each ordered beautifully prepared fish entrees with monkfish and salmon that were accompanied with carrot puree, roasted baby potatoes, pickled vegetables and broccolini.

For dessert we shared an excellent blueberry tart with a crisp cookie crust top and brown cheese ice cream. After I tried Norwegian brown cheese at other meals, I recognized the nutty, sweet caramel flavor- a perfect ending to our first dinner!

We strolled back slowly to our hotel. From our room we enjoyed a view of the harbor with a bright sky at 10:30 PM. We quickly fell into a deep sleep!

The next morning we dug eagerly into a sumptuous breakfast buffet that included smoked fish, fresh crusty whole grain breads and rolls, home made jams, fresh fruit and yogurt.

We headed out to find the Bergen Public Library which houses the Grieg archives, including the original manuscripts for many of his compositions.

Edvard Grieg was born in Bergen in 1843. Widely recognized as one of the major Romantic composers, his compositions incorporated many Norwegian folk melodies. Before our trip, I had been in contact with the archive department at the University of Bergen to find out how to access Grieg’s manuscripts. I was told that the manuscripts were housed at the Bergen Public Library and that no appointment was required.

On the way, we took a stroll through the bustling fish market, which displayed an enormous variety of fish, seafood and delicacies.

We found the library that was housed in an old stone building not far from the Kode Art Museum.

At the front desk, we asked the librarian to direct us to the Grieg Archives. She seemed a bit surprised and called another colleague on the phone. After a few minutes, another librarian appeared and said that we needed to make an appointment and that it would not be possible to view the manuscripts. I am a person who does not take “no for an answer” easily. I politely stood my ground; she finally relented and asked if we would wait a few minutes while she collected folders of music. While we were waiting, I noticed a thick book of photographs detailing the history of Bergen. I found several compelling photos.

The librarian returned with several thick folders and asked us to follow her into a room that was decorated with Grieg memorabilia.

She locked the door and asked that we not touch the pages- pictures were fine! The librarian’s demeanor softened and with great pride, one by one, she slowly turned the pages of music.

She also showed us pages of Norwegian folk melodies that were collected by Frants Beyer, a close friend of Grieg’s. Beyer is well known for collecting the folk songs that were the inspiration for Grieg’s opus 66- Nineteen Norwegian Folk Tunes.

We ended our visit having a lovely conversation with the librarian and as we left, thanked her for an inspirational and thrilling morning!

Stay tuned for Norway: Part 2 with more sites, art and food from Bergen!

AND: Here is the “Tree of the Week”:

HAPPY SUMMER!

A Summer Stroll at The Bullitt Preservation and Cherry Tomato Galette

I have safely returned from an amazing trip to Norway; part research on the Norwegian composer Edvard Grieg and a thrilling expedition by car driving on narrow winding roads over mountains and through countless tunnels. There were views of extraordinary fjords and of course many memorable meals! I am happily sorting through pictures and am planning a few blog entries about the trip. In the meantime, here is a short entry from our Fourth of July hike at the Bullitt Preservation in Ashfield, Massachusetts and a recipe for a summer Cherry Tomato Galette!

The Bullitt Preservation has a lovely system of trials that wind through meadows and woodlands.

At the top of the hill, there is a welcoming bench!

We have walked here in all seasons. An earlier blog written in December 2021, featured the famous French Chef Andre Soltner’s roast chicken. We discovered that the Bullitt Preservation was donated by the late William Christian Bullitt, Jr., the first US ambassador to the Soviet Union.

“William Christian Bullitt Jr. was a controversial figure. Bullitt was at the Paris Peace Conference in 1919, working for Woodrow Wilson and resigned after reading the resulting Treaty of Versaille. He was the first US ambassador to the Soviet Union in 1933 and then Ambassador to France until 1940. On June 14, 1940, Bullitt refused to leave in the evacuation and stayed in Paris as the Germans attacked. He escaped with his life to return to a very disappointed President Roosevelt, who had hoped he would continue working with the French temporary government in Bordeaux. Bullitt co-wrote a book about Wilson with Sigmund Freud: Thomas Woodrow Wilson: A Psychological Study.
The Ashfield property was a Poor Farm for 50 years until 1874. William Bullitt bought the property in 1920, which has since been sold privately. The Bullitt Foundation provided the funds to develop the preserve that the public can enjoy today.
New England towns borrowed the idea of Poor Farms from England, where the practice had been put into statute as part of the Elizabethan Poor Laws during the 1600’s”.

And, we could not resist inserting a bit of Roaring Twenties soap opera details!

The following is from the Wikipedia entry about Bullitt:

Bullitt married socialite Aimee Ernesta Drinker (1892-1981) in 1916. She gave birth to a son in 1917, who died two days later. They divorced in 1923. In 1924 he married Louise Bryant, journalist author of Six Red Months in Russia and widow of radical journalist John Reed. Bullitt divorced Bryant in 1930 and took custody of their daughter after he discovered Bryant’s affair with English sculptor Gwen Le Gallienne. The Bullitts’ daughter, Anne Moen Bullitt, was born in February 1924, eight weeks after their marriage. Anne Bullitt never had children. In 1967, she married her fourth husband, U.S. Senator Daniel Brewster.
During that period, he was briefly engaged to Roosevelt’s personal secretary, Missy LeHand. However, she broke off the engagement after a trip to Moscow during which she reportedly discovered him to be having an affair with Olga Lepeshinskaya, a ballet dancer.^[21][22]

The day on which we recently walked was overcast and muggy; the path leading uphill through the meadow was lined with beautiful wildflowers.

One of our favorite series is PBS Kitchen Vignettes– a farm to table video blog by Aube Giroux, a passionate organic gardener and home cook. Recently we were enjoying the video for Cherry Tomato Galette, with a rich buttery crust and a filling of creamy ricotta and parmesan cheese. After all the rich food that I ate in Norway, I decided to create a lighter version.

For some time, I have been attempting to make an olive oil crust that is both flaky and tender. Most of my tries turned out to be flavorful but hard as a rock! I think that I may have found success with this version. I used olive oil and added a few tablespoons of Spectrum non-hydrogenated shortening, ice water and yogurt; the result was a delicious flaky crust that was a breeze to roll out!

I hope you enjoy this recipe!

Cherry Tomato Galette

Ingredients:

Olive Oil Crust:

3/4 cup whole grain spelt flour

3/4 cup whole wheat pastry flour

1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons non-hydrogenated vegetable shortening (I used Spectrum Organic-All Vegetable Shortening).

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons non-fat yogurt

3 tablespoons ice water (more if necessary)

1 egg-lightly beaten for egg wash

Topping:

1 container cherry tomatoes, cut in half and laid on paper towel to drain

2 ounces feta cheese crumbled

2 tablespoons grated parmesan cheese

8 or more pitted oil cured olives, cut in pieces

handful sweet basil folded and cut into slivers

1 or 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

To Make Galette:

Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Make Pastry Crust:

Combine flours and salt in the bowl of a food processor.

Add olive oil, shortening, yogurt and ice water.

Process until the mixture forms a ball. You may need to add a bit more ice water, add 1 tablespoon at a time.

Wrap ball of dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour to let gluten in the dough relax.

Bring dough to room temperature and roll out into a large thin circle.

Place dough on baking sheet with the parchment paper.

Trim edges to make a round circle.

Place rack in the middle of the oven.

Pre heat oven to 375 degrees.

To Assemble Galette:

Place cherry tomatoes cut side down on crust and sprinkle with black olives.

Sprinkle with parmesan cheese and top with crumbled feta.

Sprinkle about 1 tablespoon olive oil over top of galette.

Brush edges of galette with egg wash- this will create a beautiful brown crust!

Bake aprox. 35 minutes until crust is browned and tomatoes start to release their juices.

Sprinkle basil over top and serve immediately!

ENJOY!!

AND: Here is the “Tree of the Week”!

HAPPY SUMMER!

Walking over the Hudson and El Gran Toro Brasserie!

*“Walkway Over the Hudson”- Poughkeepsie, New York*

It all started with a Foodie Road trip to find El Gran Toro Brasserie, a Mexican Fusion restaurant in Newburgh, New York . The restaurant was featured in Chronogram Magazine, a Hudson Valley publication. We thought we would combine a walk over the Newburgh-Beacon Bridge. After a few wrong turns we came to a small parking area with a chain link fence that led to a slightly overgrown path to the bridge. The walkway on the bridge turned out to be narrow and rusty; very close to the deafening traffic crossing the bridge. It was a blazing hot day and as we stepped onto the pathway, it vibrated up and down. Feeling queasy, a quick decision was made to cut this walk short. We headed off to Newburgh.

We drove slowly down the main thoroughfare of Newburgh; clearly the small city of 28,00 had seen better days with more than a few boarded up businesses lining the street.

We located El Gran Toro Brasserie and alas it was closed, reopening in a few hours.

Our foodie trip was going so poorly, that our situation began to appear humorous to us- we decided to make the best of it; we would scout out the area and return for an early dinner at 5 PM. As we looked around more closely, we saw some old surviving businesses and glimmers of growth and rejuvenation.

A careworn old Italian bakery seemed as if it had served the community for many years, selling countless Italian cookies, cannolis and Birthday cakes.

Likewise, Commodore Chocolatier- established in 1935 by the Courtsunis family; it was filled with mouth watering chocolates. The current owner John Courtsunis was very affable; it turned out that he was a music lover and a supporter of the arts. It was his opinion that every child should learn to play a musical instrument, much like the program El Sistema that originated in Venezuela.

Back outside, with our spirits lifted, we decided to explore some of the side streets. The architecture was beautiful with some buildings in a state of almost total disrepair.

The Dutch Reformed Church built in 1835, was graced with a community garden in front of it! The church is on Preservation League of New York State’s “Seven to Save” list.

A passerby walking his dog, noticed me looking intently at a church and said to me: “Are you interested in this church?” “The pastor is in the back working on the garden and he has a lot of stories to tell!”

As we continued on our walk, we observed other building that were in pristine condition; all it seemed with many stories to tell.

The time had flown by and El Gran Toro Brasserie was open. We entered a small unpretentious space and were warmly welcomed by our server. With the first bite of our appetizer, Sopesitos de Tlales, (crispy and flavorful carnitas, very spicy salsa roja, beans, lettuce and queso fresco), we were immediately glad that we had waited for this meal!

The chef and owner of the restaurant, Miguel Perez, is from Mexico and studied at the Culinary Institute in nearby Poughkeepsie, New York. Before opening his own restaurant, Perez was head chef at Le Bouchon in Cold Spring, New York. His delicious food is Mexican with French and Asian influences.

We ordered chicken and brisket tacos, very good, but my favorite was a rich French inspired dish of mushroom ravioli.

The ravioli was served with a rich cream sauce and topped with fresh greens, a touch of queso fresco and a slightly spicy mole sauce- irresistible!

Our foodie road trip was a roaring success!!

A few weeks later, we returned to the area and had a wonderful stroll on the Walkway over the Hudson in Poughkeepsie, New York.

The views are magnificent, but I had not realized how high we would be!

As long as we stayed in the middle of the wide walkway and did not look down over the sides of the bridge, all was fine!

Next week, I am excited to be traveling to Norway with my intrepid travel companion Carol. The trip is part research on the Norwegian composer Edvard Grieg along with, (no surprise) an emphasis on food and fjords- stay tuned!

AND: Here is the “Tree of the Week”.

HAPPY SUMMER!!

Mountain Meadow Preserve and Vegetarian Tamale Pie

*Mountain Meadow Preserve- Williamstown, MA*

At the beginning of February one of my teaching positions had a short winter break. We decided to treat ourselves to a “Cabin Fever” mini vacation and traveled further north to Williamstown, Massachusetts in the Northern Berkshires- with even colder temperatures!

Williamstown is an idyllic small New England town that includes Williams College. We have often made day trips to visit the Clark Art Institute or to nearby North Adams to MASS MoCA, scene of my most recent blog post! We looked forward to having a leisurely dinner, going to see a film and not making the long trek back home in the dark!

We checked into the upscale but cozy Williams Inn made all the more attractive with inexpensive off season rates.

We decided to first visit the Clark Art Institute and headed to a favorite gallery that includes many treasures- paintings by Cezanne, Renoir, Monet, Redon and sculptures by Rodin.

It was not crowded that day, the gallery was almost empty- we sat on a comfortable couch in the middle of the room. Surrounded by beauty, we pretended we were in our mansion in the drawing room; the troubles of the world drifted away.

*Claude Monet- Tulip Fields at Sassenheim*

*Odilon Redon- Woman with a Vase of Flowers*

In a nearby hallway we visited one of our favorite paintings, “Home at Montclair” by the American painter George Innes.

*George Innes- “Home at Montclair” 1892*

The painting expresses the stillness of twilight at the end of a cold snowy day. A wisp of smoke rising from a chimney and muted light from a window in the distance drew my thoughts inward; I imagined a warm hearth and a pot of soup simmering on a wood stove.

Afterwards, we treated ourselves to dinner at the Barn Kitchen and Bar at the Williams Inn. Although the setting was lovely with friendly servers, the food was bland and disappointing and so earns my new restaurant review- a simple, “Meh”. Some think that this word which means indifferent or expresses boredom, may be derived from Yiddish!

We still enjoyed ourselves and after dinner headed just down the street to a small independently owned movie theatre. We enjoyed the quirky movie “Poor Things” with excellent acting by Emma Stone and then returned to our inn and fell fast asleep in our cozy room.

The next day, we had a quick breakfast at a local diner and then had just enough time for a brisk walk before we needed to return home. We drove to nearby Mountain Meadow Preserve with views of snowcapped Mt. Greylock in the distance; we had last walked here on a steamy day in late summer.

Today is the first day of spring, but outside it is cold and blustery; still the kind of weather for making hearty casseroles in a hot oven! Vegetarian Tamale Pie from the NY Times Cooking section, is easy to make; with a crunchy irresistible cornmeal, cheddar and scallion topping!

Vegetarian Tamale Pie – based on NY Times Cooking: Recipe by Melissa Clark

Yield:6 to 8 servings

Ingredients:

1large red or white onion, halved
2jalapeños, halved lengthwise and seeded (I omitted the jalapenos in my version)
1poblano or green bell pepper, sliced in half lengthwise, seeds removed
2tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for brushing
1¾teaspoons kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal), plus more as needed
1(28-ounce) can whole plum or diced tomatoes
3fat garlic cloves, finely grated or minced
2tablespoons mild or hot chili powder, more as needed
2teaspoons dried oregano
1¾teaspoons ground cumin
3(15-ounce) cans black or pinto beans, drained and rinsed
1cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves and tender stems (optional)
¾cup/135 grams fine cornmeal
2tablespoons all-purpose flour (I used whole wheat pastry flour)
1½teaspoons baking powder
½teaspoon kosher salt
1large egg, at room temperature
⅓cup/80 grams sour cream or whole-milk yogurt, plus more for serving
¼cup/57 grams unsalted butter, melted and cooled (I used extra virgin olive oil)
2scallions, whites and greens thinly sliced, plus more for serving
1/2 cup grated Cheddar

PREPARATION

Prepare the chili: Move a rack as close to the heating element as possible and heat the broiler. Cover a baking sheet with foil. Finely dice half of the onion and set aside for later.
Slice remaining onion half into ½-inch-thick half-moons and arrange on the prepared baking sheet. Place jalapeños and poblano next to onions, cut sides down. Lightly brush vegetables with oil and sprinkle with a pinch of salt. Broil 2 to 4 minutes, until vegetables are charred on one side. (If the chiles are small, they will be charred after 1 to 2 minutes.) Flip vegetables and broil until the other side is charred, 1 to 3 minutes.
Transfer pan to a rack until cool enough to handle, then stem the peppers. Transfer charred vegetables and any accumulated juices to a blender (or use a bowl and immersion blender). Add canned tomato and ¼ teaspoon salt, and blend to a coarse purée. You can make this up to 4 days ahead, and store in the refrigerator until needed.)
Heat oven to 425 degrees. In a large Dutch oven, heat the 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium-high. Add diced onion and sauté until lightly browned, 6 to 9 minutes. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in chili powder, oregano, remaining 1½ teaspoons salt and cumin, and cook until spices darken, about 30 seconds.
Add beans and the reserved tomato purée, and let mixture simmer until thick like a chili, 10 to 15 minutes. Stir in cilantro, if using. Taste and add more salt and chili powder, if needed.
While the chili simmers, prepare the cornbread: In a medium bowl, whisk together cornmeal, flour, baking powder and salt.
In a small bowl, whisk together egg, sour cream or yogurt. Whisk egg mixture into cornmeal mixture until combined. Fold in scallions.
Spread cornbread topping over the chili, then top with grated cheese, if using. Bake, uncovered, until cornbread is golden brown, 20 to 25 minutes. Serve hot or warm, topped with sour cream and more scallions. I topped our version with Greek Yogurt. ENJOY!

AND: Here is the “Tree of the Week”!

Happy Spring!

The Best Crispy Potatoes and a Foodie Road Trip to the Transilvania Restaurant and Bar!

The day was cloudy and misty with a persistent cold drizzle of rain. However, our spirits were not to be dampened and we decided to set out for a foodie road trip to East Haven, Connecticut. A bit of a schlep, but as it turned out, well worth it! Our destination was a Romanian restaurant, The Transilvania Restaurant and Bar. My husband Paul had read about it in The Daily Nutmeg , an online newsletter.

This cozy restaurant, which opened in 2022, was decorated tastefully with colorful table settings. We were warmly greeted by the friendly owner, Alina Coldarariu.

The unpretentious place does not take itself too seriously; there was a bit of kitsch, with a picture of Vlad the Impaler on the wall and complete with “Bat Rooms”!

We had an excellent lunch. Paul and I shared two lunch specials that included Romanian style chicken paprikash with delicate spaeztle with marinated cabbage salad and a hearty meatball soup.

My lunch included delicious stuffed cabbage with polenta and sour cream and bruchettta with Romanian eggplant salad.

Many years ago, when I was a music student in New York, I had the opportunity to travel to Romania with a group called the Riverside Chamber Orchestra. I remembered eating an eggplant salad that had a smoky delicate flavor and here it was again!

I asked the owner Alina about the dish and she kindly described to me the technique she uses to prepare the eggplant which includes grilling whole eggplants over coals; definitely something I plan to try to make! Even though she was busy getting out other lunch orders, we had a lovely chat about Romania, which at the time of my visit was still a communist country.

The stuffed cabbage had a unique flavor. When I returned home, I read about Romanian style stuffed cabbage; it is called Sarmle and is made with sour cabbage. This is much like the flavor of sauerkraut but whole cabbages are used. One article mentioned that the cabbages can be found in Eastern European specialty food shops (another road trip!)Smoked bacon is also used-I will use turkey bacon for my version.

My husband asked Alina if there are any special Romanian dumplings and she mentioned plum dumplings-galuste cu prune.

My winter cooking projects are all set: Eggplant Salad, Semolina & Plum Dumplings, Romanian Stuffed Cabbage! In the meantime, here is a recipe for irresistible, easy to make crispy oven baked potatoes that I made during the holidays. I scored the potatoes with a fork and this made the surfaces extra crispy. The potatoes taste like a combination of French fries, home fries and baked potatoes and are so good that they could almost make a meal on their own accompanied by plain yogurt or sour cream!

Crispy Oven Baked Potatoes

Ingredients:

4-5 medium Yukon gold potatoes (leave skin on)

1 teaspoon sea salt

1 teaspoon dried rosemary

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

To Make Potatoes:

Pre heat oven to 380 Degrees

Cut potatoes in half (larger potatoes can be cut into 3 pieces).

Score the cut side of the potatoes with a fork.

Place on a baking sheet and drizzle with olive oil- with your hands, rub potatoes together to cover all surfaces.

Sprinkle with salt and dried rosemary.

Bake about 20 minutes, cut side down and then carefully turn over with metal spatula.

Bake cut side up until potatoes are brown and crispy. The insides of the potatoes will be very soft.

Eat while piping hot.

ENJOY!

BEST WISHES FOR A HAPPY AND HEALTHY NEW YEAR!!

Lemony White Bean Soup and Portland Maine Treasures!

During a time filled with strife and uncertainty, we can all use a bit of diversion. I hope you enjoy this entry and it helps to lighten your days!

It all started out with a short weekend jaunt to Portland, Maine for a well deserved rest after a few hectic weeks of teaching and rehearsals. For the first time since Covid, we planned to have dinner at one of all time favorites; Fore Street. I had quickly made a reservation for a hotel in Portland, not paying close attention to the details.

It was my turn to drive as we entered the Maine turnpike; happy memories of past trips to Maine occupying my thoughts as we sped past marsh land and waterways. My husband put the location of the hotel into the GPS and said: “It looks like we may have a bit further to go, maybe 3,178 miles”. I had inadvertently made the reservation for a hotel in Portland, Oregon! I pulled off at a rest stop and sheepishly made a call to the hotel. The kind receptionist said that this happened more often than one might expect! Luckily we found a hotel in the desired location for a very reasonable price that was not in downtown Portland, but next to the airport. It turned out to be quite decent and also included a great breakfast complete with an omelette station. And, it was only a ten minute drive to downtown Portland- crisis averted. In our topsy turvy crazy world, small victories feel all the more satisfying! After we checked into our hotel, we headed out to Fore Street and joined the daily line that forms at 4:30 PM to get a reservation for that evening. We got a coveted seat and were ushered into a large room that once was a factory with the original old brick walls and high wooden beams.

Friendly servers wear blue jeans with white aprons and you are greeted with a basket of delicious sour dough bread with a dish of excellent soft butter. The bread is from a bakery just downstairs, The Standard Bakery. With a glass of red wine, this could be a complete meal!

Fore Street offers locally sourced food with the freshest fish I have ever tasted; often the daily catch just brought in from down the street!

This evening we shared a salad with wild Maine blueberries, corn, Manchego cheese and chicory. The dressing was a lightly fennel infused olive oil. Eaten with another piece of the crusty flavorful bread and butter, this again could have been a complete meal!

There was much more to savor: in addition to excellent fish, the restaurant is also known for chicken and meat that is prepared on an open wood fired grill. We ordered rotisserie chicken that had been brined in salt, bourbon, molasses and juniper berries. Served with rich and flavorful coarse ground polenta and sauteed collard greens; the chicken was tender and succulent!

I ordered roasted pollack served in a cast iron pan that was topped with tender chunks of lobster, toasted garlic breadcrumbs, fresh corn kernels, mild shishito peppers; surrounded by a peppery fish broth and red pepper ratatouille- a lovely explosion of flavor!

After this meal, we were too full to order dessert, but managed to walk slowly to the nearby Portland Art Museum that offers free admission on Friday evenings!

This little jewel of a museum has been a long time favorite of ours with innovative and creative exhibitions that often feature works of artists with a connection to Maine. This evening, I was drawn to a few pieces of artwork that included a vibrant mosaic like painting by the American Abstract Expressionist artist Lynne Drexler. Born in 1928, she and her husband moved to Maine’s Monhegan Island in the 1970’s where she spent the rest of her life in this beautiful and idyllic location.

We also enjoyed a few works by Louise Nevelson. She was born to Jewish Ukrainian parents who moved to Rockland, Maine when she was a young child. Best known for her striking and bold sculptures, I was particularly drawn to a small painting entitled “Still Life.”

This day was truly a feast of the senses- we returned to our cozy room looking out over the Portland Jetport sated and content! The next day was spent walking around Portland and we had thought we could fit in a visit to Bao Bao Dumpling House, another favorite. We were sad to learn that they only served dinner and we needed to head back home. But, we learned that they had opened a small cafe that served lunch and is connected to an Asian grocery store in nearby Brunswick, Maine: to be continued in the next installment!

As always, when there is insurmountable trouble in the world, cooking is the tried and true remedy for me. My husband Paul found a recipe for an interesting sounding white bean soup in the NY Times Cooking column and I decided to try it. Easy to prepare and full of flavor, it was a perfect for a chilly weeknight. The first time I made the soup, I used turkey sausage and included the the grated ginger called for in the recipe. I also tried it without the ginger and added left over cubed chicken breast. I preferred this version; the flavors blended together nicely. I hope you enjoy this!

Lemony White Bean Soup (from NY Times Cooking- recipe by Melissa Clark)

INGREDIENTS:

Yield:4 servings

3tablespoons olive oil
1large onion, diced
1large carrot, diced
1bunch sturdy greens, such as kale, broccoli rabe, mustard greens or collard greens
1tablespoon tomato paste
¾teaspoon ground cumin, plus more to taste
⅛teaspoon red-pepper flakes, plus more to taste
½pound ground turkey
3garlic cloves, minced
1tablespoon finely grated fresh ginger
1teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
1quart chicken stock
2(15-ounce) cans white beans, drained and rinsed
1cup chopped fresh, soft herbs, such as parsley, mint, dill, basil, tarragon, chives or a combination
Fresh lemon juice, to taste

PREPARATION

Step 1 Heat a large pot over medium-high for a minute or so to warm it up. Add the oil and heat until it thins out, about 30 seconds. Add onion and carrot, and sauté until very soft and brown at the edges, 7 to 10 minutes.
Step 2 Meanwhile, rinse the greens and pull the leaves off the stems. Tear or chop into bite-size pieces and set aside.
Step 3 When the onion is golden, add tomato paste, ¾ teaspoon cumin and ⅛ teaspoon red-pepper flakes to the pot, and sauté until paste darkens, about 1 minute. Add turkey, garlic, ginger and 1 teaspoon salt, and sauté, breaking up the meat with your spoon, until turkey is browned in spots, 4 to 7 minutes.
Step 4 Add stock and beans, and bring to a simmer. Let simmer until the soup is thick and flavorful, adding more salt if needed, 15 to 25 minutes. If you like a thicker broth, you can smash some of the beans with the back of the spoon to release their starch. Or leave the beans whole for a brothier soup.
Step 5 Add the greens to the pot and simmer until they are very soft. This will take 5 to 10 minutes for most greens, but tough collard greens might take 15 minutes. (Add a little water if the broth gets too reduced.)
Step 6 Stir herbs and lemon juice into the pot, taste and add more salt, cumin and lemon until the broth is lively and bright-tasting. Serve topped with a drizzle of olive oil and more red-pepper flakes, if desired.

ENJOY!

AND: The “Tree of the Week” has made a comeback; I could not resist this tree!

STAY SAFE AND WARM!

September Wildflowers at Kite Hill and Crispy Kale with Caramelized Onions and Corn

It is always a thrill to discover and explore new places; it is equally rewarding to return to places that I have visited often. Kite Hill in nearby Ancram, New York is a nature preserve where I have grown to love observing the seasonal changes in the surrounding meadows and hills. In the distance is the outline of the Catskill mountains; a dependable anchor of stability in our turbulent world.

On a bright clear late September day, the brilliant yellow color of golden rod blended with other wildflowers and plants that had started to dry, showing off their rich brown and russet tones.

With cooler days and the turn of the seasons, I have returned to cranking up the heat on the oven and making hearty dishes with bold flavors. I thought about Cafe Miranda for inspiration; a favorite restaurant in Rockland, Maine that closed after 29 years during Covid. I am happy to say that they have recently reopened with a reconfigured structure and a gourmet hot dog stand in front of the restaurant called “The Excellent Dog”! I can’t wait to return!

This eccentric little place, serves creatively made food with bold flavors and fresh local ingredients. The atmosphere is unpretentious and the food is delicious. There is a wood burning oven and many of the dishes are cooked and served in cast iron pans with the vegetables roasted and charred crisply around the edges.

I had an abundance of late summer corn and some lacinato kale. Channeling Cafe Miranda, this is what I came up with:

*Crispy Kale with caramelized onions and corn*

I caramelized a thinly sliced onion until it softened and turned light golden and massaged pieces of lacinato kale with olive oil and salt; this tenderized the kale. I mixed the kale and corn kernels with the onions, along with dried thyme, ground cumin, smoked paprika and red pepper flakes and cooked the mixture for a few minutes on the stove. I stuck the pan under a hot broiler until the kale crisped up and started to char; quick and delicious! We served this with a small dish of leftover bolognese sauce with green beans and pasta. Along with a glass of red wine, a lovely early fall dinner!

Crispy Kale with Caramelized Onions and Corn

Ingredients:

1/2 bunch of lacinato kale- torn into medium sized pieces and tough middle stems removed.

1 small onion thinly sliced

1 cup corn fresh corn kernels

1 teaspoon dried thyme

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon smoked paprika

1/2 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes

salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

extra virgin oil

To make Crispy Kale:

In a small bowl, place kale and massage with a bit of olive oil and a few pinches of salt. Massage together for a few minutes- set aside.

In a cast iron or broiler proof pan, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil and add onion. Cook over medium heat stirring often until onions soften and turn a dark golden color.

Add kale, corn and other seasonings. Cook a few minutes over medium heat.

Turn broiler on high.

Place dish under broiler and cook a few minutes until kale starts to crisp up and turns dark in a few places. Turn kale over with a tongs and cook a few minutes more.

Remove from broiler and serve immediately.

ENJOY!

HAPPY FALL!

Magical Forest Fungi and Mushroom Farro Risotto

*Schiffman Woods Reserve- Alford, Massachusetts*

Late August; the extra rainfall this summer has created an ideal environment for the prolific growth of fungi and mushrooms. Clusters of colorful specimens appear overnight from the rich loamy soil on the forest floor.

On a sunny day, with low humidity and light refreshing breezes, I took off on a solo mushroom expedition. Note, that I do not forage mushrooms to eat, I respectfully am just an observer!

A few years ago we walked on the Saddle Trail in Alford, Massachusetts; I remembered that there were many mushrooms and fungi. I found the trailhead and started off. It was a cool day; the long trek upwards through a meadow and fields was not too hot and at the top, there was a rewarding view with a bench!

The trail continued upwards through beautiful sun dappled woods, but there were few mushrooms and fungi.

Just down the road from the Saddle Trail, I saw a sign for the Shiffman Woods Reserve; a tiny one mile loop around marsh land. I walked slowly, looking downwards, closely observing the ground and I hit pay dirt!

I saw colorful, intricate specimens; one looked like tiny fingers stretching upwards.

According to Wikipedia, the species was first described as Clavaria fusiformis by English botanist James Sowerby in 1799, from collections made in Hampstead Heath in London. The fungus is considered to be edible and is often consumed in Nepal.

Ramariopsis kunzei is reported to being edible with no particular flavor and belongs to a group of fungi called coral fungi. It is found in Britain and Ireland and also parts of North America.

I’m not sure what the next little beauties are; I think I will need to take an expert forager with me on another expedition!

A tiny maple leaf on the ground was a sign that fall is not far away.

**************

I was thinking about the excellent risotto that we had in Iceland after a concert and wanted to recreate the dish. I decided to use farro instead of arborio rice, the usual ingredient for risotto. Farro is less starchy and the result was not as creamy, but delicious. I had been hoarding a bottle of sauvignon blanc from the Charles Krug winery that I got on my trip to California last March. Alone, the wine was crisp, fruity and clean; added to the dish, the flavor sang through!

I sauteed some chicken breasts and deglazed the pan with more of the white wine. Served along with glazed tarragon carrots, broccolini and of course glasses of wine, we had an excellent feast!

Mushroom Farro Risotto

Ingredients:

1 cup farro

1 cup chicken broth (use more if necessary)

1/4 cup white wine

1/4 cup grated parmesan cheese

freshly ground black pepper to taste

handful finely chopped parsley (I use Italian parsley)

1/4 teaspoon dried ground sage

2 small shallots finely diced

6-8 button mushrooms (any variety is good)- sliced into small pieces

3-4 shitake mushrooms- sliced into small pieces

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

To Make Risotto:

In a medium sized pot, heat olive oil.

Saute shallots until they soften, do not brown.

Add mushrooms and saute over medium heat until they release their liquid.

Add farro and stir with other ingredients.

Pour in wine and cook until all of the liquid evaporates and then add about a 1/4 cup of the chicken broth at a time. Add the sage. Cook over low heat, stirring occasionally until almost all of the liquid is absorbed. Keep adding liquid until the farro is softened, but not gummy. You may need to add additional chicken broth. Stir in the parmesan, black pepper to taste and before serving, add chopped parsley. Adjust the seasoning- I did not add salt because the chicken broth was salted. This dish requires a bit of patience, but is well worth the effort, and you can always enjoy a glass of wine while cooking!

ENJOY!

HAPPY LATE SUMMER!

*******************

A Return to Iceland with Hevreh!

Last summer I had the wonderful opportunity to travel to Iceland. Not knowing quite what to expect, I was delighted by the stunning scenery, warm welcoming people and the delicious food!

This year, my group Hevreh Ensemble was the recipient of a generous donation and along with grants from Hofstra University, we thought that another tour might be possible. Iceland came to mind and I started to reach out to various concert venues. Iceland has a total population of under 400,000; but I had discovered that the Icelandic people are art and music lovers.

We received an invitation to perform for a concert series in the far north of Iceland in the small fishing village of Seydisfjordur; The Blue Church Summer Concerts, and from this, the rest of the tour started to fall into place!

We started the tour in bustling Reykjavik; it was a pleasure to return to Iceland, to be able to show the group familiar places and to make new discoveries. Our accommodation at Hotel Reykjavik Centrum was just two blocks from our first concert at the Reykjavik City Library.

After a “restful” night on the plane….

We arrived early the next morning, much too soon to check into the hotel. I enjoyed watching the jet lagged faces of the other group members slowly light up with pleasure as we strolled down the quaint streets.

They remarked that this was quite unlike any other place they had ever been. I remembered a wonderful bakery called Bakabaka a few blocks away and it quickly became a group favorite. We happily tucked into plates of creamy scrambled eggs with wild mushrooms, fresh crusty sour dough bread with plenty of coffee and the Swedish cardamom buns that I dreamed about were still on the menu!

Over the next week, we embarked on a whirlwind tour of the entire country; our other concerts were in the northernmost section of Iceland and then on the other coast. We drove long distances, but were rewarded with spectacular scenery; including stunning glaciers.

As we drove through the countryside, there were few cars and many curious sheep!

The Blue Church in Seydisfjordur and the Skaholt Cathedral in Selfloss are both located on important historic and religious sites and as I entered these sacred buildings, I felt a deep sense of spirituality and peace.

It was a wonderful experience to bring our music to new audiences. I watched the fascinated faces of the eager and interested concert goers as they listened to the gentle sounds of the Native American Flutes that we play and the stirring and powerful Shofar.

Before our concert at the Blue Church, our pianist Adam Morrison warmed up on the magnificent Steinway B piano. He kindly gave me permission to include this video:

And then, of course, there was the food! I had asked our group members if they would like to visit a few of the restaurants that I had enjoyed on my last trip. The expected answer was one of quick approval!

The night we arrived in Selfloss, we went to a favorite restaurant that I had visited last summer; located in the oldest house in the village, Tryggvaskali is also purported to be haunted!

The atmosphere was charming and the food was just as delicious as I had remembered with the freshest fish possible. I enjoyed an artful presentation of roasted monkfish with carrot puree, crispy kale, roasted carrots and apricot chutney; the flavors a perfect blend of sweet and savory.

For dessert, we all shared not too sweet salted caramel mousse, topped with watermelon sorbet and crunchy bits of granola; perfect after a long day of driving! This being summer in Iceland, the sun was still high in the sky as we arrived at our hotel at 9:30 PM!

Part of the joy of traveling is discovering small off the beaten path restaurants and cafes, often quirky and eccentric. The Filling Station in the small fishing village of far north Seydisfjordjur was decorated with contemporary art, colorful tables and chairs and served hearty fresh organic food.

On the days of performances, I make sure to eat something light that will also give me energy and focus during concerts. After a morning concert for the local Seydisfjordur Retirement Home, I had an excellent bowl of coconut curry soup and avocado toast at the Filling Station.

Then, I had to make sure to have another light meal before our evening performance at the Blue Church. Just down the street from the church was a delightful small inn called the Hotel Aldan. I ordered a plate of grilled vegetables with goat cheese; along with fresh whole wheat bread and butter this was perfect. Ah, the life of a traveling foodie musician!

After concerts, we are usually starved and also ready for beer! Just across the street from our hotel The Blue Fagrilundar in Selfloss was a charming family run restaurant called Mika. This is where we went after our concert at the Skaholt Cathedral.

All of the group ordered wild mushroom risotto that was topped with succulent and crispy roasted chicken with a side salad of arugula lightly dressed with lemon. Along with tall glasses of local Icelandic beer, all was perfect in the world!

Our concerts were finished and there was one more major treat that I wanted to show everyone; a visit to the thermal hot springs; Krauma. Located about 1 1/2 hours from Reykjavik, it was un touristy and filled with hardy northern Europeans.

A heady artic blast of air met us as we stepped outside from the showers, but as we sank into a pool of hot mineral water, the warmth enveloped us and it was heavenly!

It’s never easy to travel and the added stress of concert tours can be challenging. As group members become collectively fatigued, tempers can flare. Somehow, all is managed, often by a calming comment by one of the others and then peace will prevail. After tours, what remains are fond memories of our shared experiences.

The last night in Reykjavik, I made a reservation at the Public House Gastro Pub, an excellent restaurant with small tapas like plates that can best be described as Icelandic with an Asian twist. It was one of my favorites from last summer. We ate our fill of delicious creative morsels that included pickled beet root on a cracker with goat cheese, truffle mayo, figs and pico de gallo and crispy Icelandic doughnuts filled with tender beef cheeks with apricot chutney. This dish was a play on a popular Icelandic dessert called Love Balls also known as asterpungar loosely translated as love testicles! An incredible meal that was the perfect ending to a wonderful tour!

*Midnight view from hotel room in Seydisfjordur!*

I hope that you enjoy our adventures! HAPPY SUMMER!

Spring in Sonoma/ Music and Foodie Explorations: Part 1

Under the auspices of a generous Professional Development Grant from Hofstra University, I recently traveled to California to meet with the legendary jazz oboist, Paul McCandless. I have listened to his lyrical and soaring improvisations for many years with the group Oregon, The Paul Winter Consort and countless other groups. I was thrilled to have the opportunity to meet together in person.

Reed maker extraordinaire Chris Philpotts and excellent English Hornist with the Cincinnati Symphony had given me Paul’s contact info.

Not sure what to expect or how our sessions would develop, I took a deep breath and decided to plunge into the experience with an open mind and much humility.

I was accompanied for the sessions with my dear friend Carol who is a gifted and talented visual artist. She offered to take pictures and videos and to take notes. As Paul opened the door to his beautiful warm home, I immediately sensed his gentle and intelligent nature. He had set up two chairs next to his bass clarinet and soprano sax and I realized that his intention was to share his knowledge with me. I took out my oboe and he asked me to improvise a simple melody. Over the next two days, he offered tips and advise on the art of improvisation and how he envisioned the use of the oboe as a jazz instrument. His comments were always carefully phrased, insightful and full of useful intention. I came away from our sessions together invigorated and motivated. I will always treasure this short time that we spent together.

I also enjoyed greatly talking to Paul; discussing our careers in music and sharing stories about teachers from our past. It turns out that we both studied with the legendary oboist Robert Bloom. He played tracks from some of his favorite improvisations, including a piece from a recording that he made with The Paul Winter Consort and the exquisite Brazilian singer, Renato Braz. Listening to Paul’s lyrical and soaring lines along with the singer’s soulful voice was moving and inspirational beyond words.

At some point, almost inevitably, the conversation turned to food. Paul asked where we had dinner the night before and we described the excellent Butternut Squash Gnocchi with sage brown butter topped with crushed Amaretti cookie crumbs that we had a cozy small restaurant in Healdsburg called Spinster Sisters.

As we described the flavor and texture of the dish, Paul’s eyes lit up in recognition. His group Oregon had been on a tour to Italy, traveling through the part of the alps that borders Austria and Italy. A local restaurant owner was a fan of their group. To honor the group, he created an entire menu with dishes inspired by some of his favorite compositions; one of the entrees was butternut squash ravioli; a magical blend of music and food!

After our all too short time together, Carol and I set off on a planned foodie exploration in the surrounding Napa Valley.

Our base was the small unpretentious town of Santa Rosa; home of Charles Schultz, the creator of the Peanut’s comic strip. We flew into the tiny Santa Rosa airport, nick named the “Snoopy Airport”; the bathrooms walls were lined with Peanut themed mosaics!

Statues from the Peanuts comic strip were placed throughout the town of Santa Rosa.

One of our favorite lunch spots was a charming plant-based restaurant Little Saint in Healdsburg. We shared an artfully arranged salad dressed with winter citrus and herbs and dressed with a delicate Meyer lemon vinaigrette.

Along with a mug of frothy hot chocolate made with almond milk, I enjoyed a grilled cheese sandwich made with cashew cheddar on crunchy sour dough bread flecked with sea salt; with a side of marinated carrots and spicy home made whole grain mustard it was a perfect combination of tastes and textures!

Carol had an equally delicious black bean burger, but it was the dessert that was the unexpected star of the day. We shared a small vegan chocolate tart made with whipped ganache, almond paste and candied orange. It tasted rich and decadent; hard to believe that no butter, cream or eggs were involved. I asked if it might be possible to get the recipe, the answer was the expected polite “sorry, but, no”!

After lunch we had a short rest at our lovely small hotel, the historic Hotel La Rose built in 1907. The staff was friendly and helpful, the building was charming and full of character, the rooms spacious and clean with the price of the rooms surprisingly affordable.

*Courtyard Hotel La Rose- Santa Rosa, CA*

And then, it was time to head out to our dinner destination, the Glen Ellen Star in the idyllic small town of Glen Ellen which is nestled in the hills of Sonoma Valley. Glen Ellen is the home of the American novelist Jack London, who wrote Call of the Wild. He lived there from 1905 until his death in 1916.

On the way to Glen Ellen, we stopped often to take pictures and to admire the stunning landscape. Because of the long drought that California has endured, the hills would normally be rusty brown. This year in early March, as a result of the abnormal rainfall, the landscape was a verdant green.

The Glen Ellen Star Restaurant was a little gem, with an excellent farm to table menu. We started the meal with a round of freshly baked sour dough bread topped with grated parmesan and served with herb butter.

This along with roasted cauliflower with a sauce of tahini, dukkah (an Egyptian spice blend of nuts,sesame seeds, coriande and cumin) and sunflower seeds would have made a complete meal!

But the menu was too tempting, so we soldiered on and ordered tender roast chicken served over creamy polenta made with sweet red cornmeal.

We managed to find the room to share one dessert; delicate Panna Cotta with salted caramel sauce. It was cool, smooth and not too sweet- a perfect ending to a beautiful day!

I did find a few California candidates for “Tree of the Week. This is one of my very reptilian like favorites!

Part 2 of our California Foodie Exploration coming soon!

HAPPY SPRING!!