Knodels and Pappardella- From Munich to Bolzano: Part 1

Bolzano, Italy

The plan was to write blog entries in the order of my recent trip to Europe: Munich, Salzburg, Ljublijana, Trieste and Bolzano.

Last week, on a overcast and stormy day I was inspired to try to recreate a healthy version of a rich Slovenian dessert, Pretmurska Gibanica that we enjoyed in Ljublijana. It is layered with fillings of apple, poppy seed, farmers cheese and walnuts. The rainy afternoon flew by as I researched recipes and then assembled and baked the delicacy. I’m happy to report there was success and am excited to share the recipe for the resulting dessert.

We were fortunate to discover the non-touristy, small beautiful Central European city of Ljublijana (pronounced “Loobliana”).

Ljublijana, Slovenia

We drove from Salzburg to Slovenia; as we entered Ljublijana, we were met by stark Soviet era high rises devoid of any charm. Heading towards the center of the city, the architecture changed dramatically; the old narrow streets were charming with many streets for pedestrians only.

Ljublijana

Our hotel, The Grand Hotel Union was just a few blocks from the center of the old city with lovely views of the town. Best of all, our room was upgraded to a huge suite with high windows at no extra cost!

Ljublijana

The Ljublijana River flows through center of the old city with many small bridges.

One of most famous bridges is the Dragon Bridge, protected by fierce looking dragons on all sides.

The quaint streets were lined with cafes, restaurants, wine shops, bakeries and unusual specialty shops. One lovely shop sold liquors and brandies that were distilled in Croatia; the owner proudly showed us on a map the location of their family’s distillery.

Although there were not as many tourists as in Salzburg, there were still shops that specialized in “tchotchkes”- like this shop that sold only rubber ducks!

We had dinner at an excellent restaurant called JAZ that was recently opened by the three star Michelin chef Ana Roz. Tucked away on a hard to find side street, the restaurant was excellent- warm, welcoming and creative; a blend of Italian food with Slovenian and Central European influences.

JAZ

We started with a glass of chilled Slovenian orange wine (white wine where the grape skins are not removed immediately) and a basket of crusty bread with herbed salted butter.

We shared several entrees, the first a dish of bread pasta (the server explained that the pasta is made from semolina and leftover breadcrumbs.)

The beautifully presented dish was constructed with a tarragon puree, red pepper sauce, poppy seed puree and fresh ricotta cheese. The server suggested stirring everything together before we dug in.

If you will excuse the musical metaphor, this was truly a contrapuntal texture of flavors; an intricate fugue of flavors perfectly intertwined!

The next course was a light and delicious dish of Vitello Tonnato, (tender thin slices of boiled veal with a tuna and anchovy sauce). The dish was adorned by olive oil, fresh oregano, herbs and fat flavorful capers.

Our last course was grilled fish nestled on a pea puree with local organic greens, fish roe and tiny pieces of sweet strawberry; beautiful as a still life painting.

Thankfully we had left a tiny bit of room for a show stopping Slovenian dessert; Kobarid Struklji, a traditional dumpling filled with ground walnuts, raisins and breadcrumbs, served with a buttery caramel sauce!

Before the trip, I had read about another traditional Slovenian dessert, a layered cake with poppy seed, apple, walnut and cheese. I asked our server about it and she told us we great pride that one must be certified to sell Prekmurska in stores. She kindly looked up a few places that sold it and wrote the names down for us on a slip of paper.

The next morning, we thought it would be fun to search out one of the bakeries that sold Prekmurska. We asked the clerk at the hotel desk for directions and he told us excitedly that they served the cake at the hotel and would we like to have a piece? We purchased a fat slice for a late morning picnic and set off for one more walk around the town before we headed off on our next destination to Trieste in Italy.

Prekmurska Gibanica

It was a hot day and we soon searched out a shady spot. We sat at the foot of a small fountain and took out our treat to share. It was cool and not too sweet- almost a second breakfast.

A group of tourists from Italy soon gathered next to the fountain and we listened to an Italian tour guide talk about the fountain. Although we did not understand a word, the happy sounds of the people in the group chattering in Italian made us excited for the next part of our trip in Italy!

Here is my recipe for Prekmurska Gibanica. I based it on a recipe that I found online from the Slovenian Kitchen blog. Their blog has the following description of the cake:

Prekmurska gibanica originates from Prekmurje, which literally means ‘across the Mura river (region)’, and is the most renowned traditional Slovenian pastry. The name comes from güba, which in the dialect means a fold – implying that it is a type of cake that is folded.

I wanted to make a cake that used only small amounts of coconut sugar, no cream and whole wheat flour in the pastry crust. I also added chopped golden raisons in the walnut layer. This is a project cake, but not too difficult. It makes a large cake, but it can be easily divided and frozen.

Prekmurska gibanica– Traditional Slovenian Layer Cake

1 package phyllo dough (completely defrosted)

Pastry Crust:

1 cup whole wheat pastry flour

1 cup whole grain spelt four

2 tablespoons coconut sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla

1 teaspoon salt

1 stick unsalted butter

3 tablespoons non-hydrogenated shortening (I like the organic Spectrum brand)

3 or more tablespoons ice water

Make the pastry crust:

In the bowl of a food processor combine flours, salt, coconut sugar, butter and shortening until just combined.

Add the ice water and vanilla and process until a ball shape forms. You may need to add more water a tablespoon at a time.

Form into a ball, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate at least one hour. When you want to make the cake, bring the dough back to room temperature.

Poppy Seed Layer

  • 8 ounces poppy seeds
  • 2 cups milk (you can also use almond milk)
  • 1 tsp vanilla extract
  • 4 tablespoons butter I used Country Crock Plant Butter with Avocado Oil
  • 1/4 cup coconut sugaryou can use more, for a sweeter flavor).
  • 3 teaspoons cornstarch mixed with 1/4 cup water

Walnut Layer

  • 450 g ground walnuts
  • 1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
  • 1/2 cup golden raisons (cut into small pieces if large)
  • 1/4 cup coconut sugar

Farmer’s Cheese Layer

  • 16 ounces farmer’s cheese (can be replaced by ricotta– if you use ricotta, make sure it is well drained).
  • 1 egg
  • 1/4 cup maple syrup
  • 1 tsp vanilla extract
  • zest of 1 lemon

Apple Layer

  • 4 apples
  • 1 tsp cinnamon
  • zest of 1 lemon

8 ounces low fat sour creamI added 1/4 cup maple syrup and the zest from 1/2 lemon

Poppy Seed Layer

  1. For the filling, place poppy seeds, sugar, milk and butter in a sauce pan and bring to a simmer. Cook at medium heat, stirring occasionally until the poppy seeds are cooked and the mixture thickens slightly- this will take about 15 minutes. Add cornstarch slurry and cook until mixture thickens. It will thicken more as it cools.
  2. Add vanilla extract.
  3. Cover and place in fridge.

Walnut Layer

  1. Grind walnuts in food processor- add cinnamon, coconut sugar and golden raisons.

Farmer’s Cheese Layer

  1. Mix all the ingredients for the farmer’s cheese layer together.

Apple Layer

  1. Core the apples, peel them, and grate them. I placed my apples in the food processor and pulsed them for a few seconds- very quick!! Mix the grated apples with cinnamon, and the zest of 1 lemon.

Make Prekmurska gibanica:

  1. Once all the fillings, base dough and phyllo dough are ready, you can start building the gibanica.
  2. First, butter a large rectangular baking pan.
  3. On a floured surface, roll out the pastry crust into a rectangular shape. Place the dough on the bottom of the baking pan.
  4. On the top of the base dough, put one layer of phyllo pastry, spread sour cream over it, and another layer of phyllo dough.
  5. Put half of the poppy seed filling on top of that.
  6. The poppy seeds are then covered with another layer of phyllo dough, sour cream, and phyllo dough.
  7. Over that spread half the farmer’s cheese filling.
  8. The third filling is then walnuts, followed by apples. Each filling is covered with phyllo dough, sour cream, and another phyllo dough layer.
  9. Repeat the procedure with the fillings in the same order and complete with a layer of phyllo dough, sour cream, and one final phyllo dough layer.
  10. On top of the final phyllo dough layer, spread sour cream generously. Sprinkle top with ground cinnamon.
  11. Bake in a preheated oven at (355 Fahrenheit) for 1 hour. If top starts to brown too quickly, cover loosely with foil until done. Let cool for 1 hour before serving.

ENJOY!!

AND: Here is the “Tree of the Week”!

“I Feel Like I have a Hole in My Head!”

Buttercup Preserve-Stanfordville, NY

HAPPY SUMMER!!

Blueberry, Strawberry & Yogurt Cream Tart-A Cooling Summer Dessert!

Salzburg, Austria

I am back from an amazing eight day whirlwind trip with my travel buddy Carol to Munich, Salzburg, Ljubjiana in Slovenia, Trieste and Bolzano! With many wonderful art and food adventures, I am just starting to sort through pictures; a few blog entries are soon to come.

In the meantime, here is a short blog from closer to home with a cooling recipe for a no-bake blueberry and strawberry tart to beat the heat!

On one of the hottest days last week, we found a cool shady picnic spot with a heavenly breeze at the Bryant Homestead in Cummington, Massachusetts.

In the distance was a sunny field dotted with wildflowers. I ventured briefly into the hot sunny meadow and discovered that it was filled with beautiful “Devil’s Paintbrush” wildflowers.

On the way home, we stopped off at The Old Creamery Coop for cold drinks; jars of organic blueberry spread with no added sugar were for sale. I imagined that this would be good for a fruit tart with the jam spread on the bottom of the crust.

Usually at this time of the year, I look forward to picking sweet succulent organic strawberries at the Thompson Finch Farm in Ancramdale, New York. It was much to hot to think about venturing out into the sun. Luckily, the kind people at Thompson Finch offered to head out very early in the morning to beat the heat to pick berries, with a very generous price of one dollar more a pound. I quickly accepted their offer and drove out to the farm in the early evening to pick up my order. Almost back home with a heaping 10 pound box of berries that perfumed our car with their sweet fragrance, a family of red foxes was crossing the main road. Cars stopped in both directions and we were treated to the fox parents, one in front and the other in the back slowly shepherding three furry adorable fox pups safely across. It was a lovely end to a hot summer day in the country!

Now, with strawberries in hand, my tart idea was complete. I pre -baked an olive oil crust; you could also use a purchased graham cracker crust. I made a filling with whole milk Greek yogurt, vanilla and maple syrup. I heaped this into the crust spread with the blueberry jam and topped it with fresh blueberries and the sweetest strawberries imaginable; very easy to make, cooling and rich tasting!

ENJOY!

No-Bake Blueberry and Strawberry Tart

Filling:

1 1/2 cups whole milk Greek yoogurt

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/4 cup maple syrup (or to taste)

Whisk together ingredients and place in refrigerator while preparing crust

Topping:

2 cups fresh blueberries, washed and patted dry on paper towel

1 cup or more fresh strawberries, washed and patted dry on paper towel

Cut strawberries in half if small or slice if larger

For Bottom of Pie Crust:

Organic Blueberry Jam to- best if just sweetened with fruit juice

Olive Oil Crust:

3/4 cup whole grain spelt flour

3/4 cup whole wheat pastry flour

1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons non-hydrogenated vegetable shortening (I used Spectrum Organic-All Vegetable Shortening).

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons non-fat yogurt

3 tablespoons ice water (more if necessary)

Make Pastry Crust:

Combine flours and salt in the bowl of a food processor.

Add olive oil, shortening, yogurt and ice water.

Process until the mixture forms a ball. You may need to add a bit more ice water, add 1 tablespoon at a time.

Wrap ball of dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour to let gluten in the dough relax.

Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees Farenheit.

Bring dough to room temperature and roll out into a large thin circle.

Place dough in a pie tin and line the pie tin with a sheet of parchment paper.

Prick dough on bottoms and sides with a fork.

Place coffee beans or pie weights over the paper and bake in the oven about 10 minutes. This is called “baking blind” and helps to prevent the crust from shrinking away from the sides.

After 10 minutes, carefully remove the paper and weights and continue baking the crust about 15-20 minutes more until it is lightly brown. Remove from the oven and let cool completely before filling.

To Assemble Pie:

Spread pie crust with about 2-3 tablespoons blueberry jam.

Spoon in yogurt filling.

Heap berries on top- can be eaten immediately or refrigerated for a few hours before serving.

ENJOY!!

AND: Here is the “Tree of the Week”

“Let Me Tell You!”

HAPPY SUMMER!!

A Leaf in a Pond and a Peanut Butter Cookie Treat!

On a cool and cloudy day, we took a short walk at the Joffe Nature Sanctuary in New Marlborough, Massachusetts. My eye caught a lone maple leaf floating gently on the shallow marsh pond.

As we strolled on the trail that loops around the idyllic marsh, we composed haikus about the leaf. Here is what we came up with (mostly my husband Paul’s invention!)

Leaves in the pond-light

Life dances around us, bright

Time flows, a grace note

At the end of the loop, we returned to the pond to check out our lone maple leaf- it was now joined by four leaves; the sun had broken through the clouds. The light had changed the image dramatically.

That afternoon, the cool weather put me in the mood for baking and I thought of the vegan peanut butter cookies from the cozy Woodstar Cafe in Northhampton, MA. Those cookies and iced chai were my special treat during Covid and one of my best mood elevators. After eating many of these treats, I decided to try to concoct my own version and originally published it in a blog post in December 2021: “Hemlock Heaven and Bear Swamp”. The ingredients are healthy and include almond flour, ground flaxseed, chia seeds, chunky peanut butter, vanilla and maple syrup. You can also add chunks of dark chocolate. They are chewy, delicious and slightly addictive. I hope you enjoy making these!

EASY One Bowl Vegan Peanut Butter Cookies

Pre-heat oven to 350

Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper

Ingredients:

1 cup crunchy peanut butter* see note

1/4 cup maple syrup

1 teaspoon vanilla

3/4 cup almond flour

1/4 cup ground flax seed

handful chia seeds

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/4 cup soy milk of mixture is too dry.

To make cookies:

In a medium sized bowl, mix together peanut butter, maple syrup and vanilla. Combine well with a large spoon.

Add almond flour, ground flax seed and baking powder. Mix well, the batter will be stiff, but not dry.

If the mixture is too crumbly, add about 1/4 cup soy milk.

I like to get my hands into the batter and form the dough into a large ball. It should feel like the consistency of play dough!

Form batter into small balls- I made 15, but you could make fewer larger cookies.

Press gently with a fork to make a criss cross pattern.

Bake in middle of oven for about 1o minutes until the bottoms of the cookies are light brown- the cookies will still feel quite soft.

Note* I used peanut butter that was salted. If you use an unsalted brand, add about 1/2 teaspoon salt to the batter.

AND: Here is the “Tree of the Week”

” Not Sure it’s Safe Out There

Joffe Nature Sanctuary

HAPPY SPRING!!

A Misty Early Spring Stroll and Wild Blueberry Ginger Crumble

Kite Hill-Ancram, New York

It had been raining lightly most of the day, stopping long enough for a misty stroll on Kite Hill in nearby Ancram, New York. The air was invigorating, raw and cold. I headed up the gentle slope; the trees that lined the path were just starting to bud.

As I continued on my walk, thoughts of Passover came to mind. This year, our daughter Alicia would join us. In addition to being a professional singer and cantor, she is a member of a group which specializes in Early Jewish music called Myriam. She is also currently in the rabbinical program at the Reconstructionist Rabbinical College. We were thrilled that she would be leading the Passover Service- just a little proud here! I could happily kvell for an extended period of time!

With the plans for the Passover service under expert hands, I looked forward to thinking about the guests that we would greet and welcome to our Seder table and about the food we would serve. On the menu was traditional Maztoh Ball Soup, with extra fluffy matzoh balls flavored with small amounts of nutmeg and ground ginger; a recipe inspired by the incredible Jewish cookbook author Joan Nathan. We also planned to serve often requested Smoked Whitefish Gefilte Fish, a modern take on Gefilte Fish, featured in an earlier blog: https://wordpress.com/post/musicianstravels.com/4917. Chicken breasts stuffed with wild rice, shallots and pecans and a vegetable medley of carrots, zucchini, roasted red peppers and caramelized onions rounded out the menu!

With the current strife and terrible loss of life in the Middle East and the continued war in Ukraine, this year our Passover service was all the more poignant. We chose to spend our time together talking about these important issues and our collective human frailty, but also found a way to celebrate our precious time together. AND, somehow, we found room for fresh juicy strawberries and a delicious almond torte brought by a dear friend. This dessert is so good, that an entire blog will appear soon featuring Swedish Visiting Cake!

During the Passover week, it is traditional to not eat leavened bread or flour. One night during her visit, our daughter made an improvised flourless blueberry crumble with no leavening or flour. It was so good, that I tried to recreate it and this is what I came up with. For my version, I added ground ginger and a bit of finely diced candied ginger. Easy to make, this is also good for breakfast topped with plain yogurt. Feel free to add sugar to the blueberry and tapioca mixture. This would also work with regular blueberries- I like the flavor of the smaller wild blueberries, frozen is OK, but the full intense flavor of fresh wild blueberries in the summer makes me nostalgic for past summer vacations in Maine and fresh wild blueberry pie!

ENJOY!

Wild Blueberry Ginger Crumble

Ingredients:

Filling:

5 cups frozen wild blueberries- defrosted (I used Wymans Wild Blueberries). Use fresh blueberries in the summer! Sprinkle tapioca over berries and set aside.

2 tablespoons instant tapioca

Crumble Topping

1/2 cup almond flour

1/2 cup coconut flour

1/2 teaspoon ginger powder

1 teaspoon cinnamon

pinch salt

1 egg yolk

1/3 cup coconut oil

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/4 cup maple syrup (more if a sweeter taste is desired)

1/4 cup finely diced candied ginger (optional)

Preparation:

Preheat oven to 350F

Place blueberries in a medium sized oval baking dish and sprinkle tapioca over the berries. Set aside while you prepare the topping.

Whisk together dry ingredients and then add egg yolk, coconut oil, vanilla, and maple syrup. Add candied ginger if using. Mix with your hands until you can form medium sized clumps. If the mixture is too dry, add either a bit more coconut oil or syrup.

Drop pieces of mixture over the berries and place in the oven on a rack that is in the middle. Check after about 10 minutes- if the top is browning too quickly, cover with foil and continue baking. Bake for aprox. 40 minutes.

ENJOY!

Trusty baking dish awaiting another crumble!

AND: Here is the “Tree of the Week!”

“Yikes”!

First wildflowers of the Spring: Trillium and Trout Lily! William Cullen Bryant Homestead- Cummington, MA

HAPPY SPRING!